Phoenix City Guide

Companies like PetSmart, U-Haul, Intel, and the Best Western hotel chain are based here, as are all the AmericanExpress financial transactions, customer information, and its entire website. Psycho, Raising Arizona, and Jerry McGuire were shot in Phoenix, and though celebs like Duane Eddy, Buck Owens, Stevie Nicks, Wayne Newton, and Alice Cooper started here, Phoenicians of note tend toward the political - as in Sandra Day O'Connor, William Rehnquist, Barry Goldwater, and John McCain.

Phoenix has its own Hall of Flame Museum of Firefighting, with more than 100 restored fire trucks and equipment dating from 1725 to 1961, as well as the internationally renowned Heard Museum and its premier collection of fine Native American arts, crafts, and ethnographic objects. In fact, the art of the Southwest's true natives informs this entire valley, where fine pottery, silver, weavings, sand painting, baskets, katsina dolls, and other wares of the Navajo, Hopi, and other tribes abound.

And then of course there's Scottsdale -- Beverly Hills gone Wild West, buzzing with a profusion of lavish luxury resorts, hotels, and boasting more destination spas than any U.S city, plus corporate meeting, convention, and conference centers. To that add more than 200 golf courses and a ton of tournaments (including the FBR Open, the most highly attended in the world), plus fancy auto auctions, culinary and film festivals, the famed Arabian horse show, and Fashion Week each November. Not done yet. There's art too, a ton of it, as in more than 125 art galleries and studios, representing one of the highest per-capita anywhere in the nation and one of the largest markets in western and Native American-themed art. Then lay on Taliesin West, Frank Lloyd Wright's former winter home and school and now one of the most popular tourist attractions in the state, and to top it off, a Mayo Clinic facility. But it's the western vibe that resonates most here, in "the west's most western town," with major cowboy and cowgirl activity culminating in the month-long Jaycees Parada del Sol, the premier cowboy event in the nation. Yes, you definitely want to bring your bola ties and boots to Scottsdale. . .

Despite all this development, 16 species of rattlesnakes, 20 species of scorpions, and the Gila monster all manage to thrive in the neighboring desert, quite possibly waiting to make your acquaintance. Take a pass? OK, then; for an adventure of a slightly tamer nature, there's always . . . shopping!

CENTRAL PHOENIX: Biltmore Fashion Park is a classic upscale open-air plaza shopping center with atmo and a big fat variety of stores and boutiques. Lots of space for kids to run, in case you'd rather they not streak into venues like Macys, Saks, our pals Ann, Apple, Bebe, the PB, and fine fellas Ralph Lauren, Stuart Weitzman, Tommy Bahama, and the Brothers Brooks, to name just a few.2502 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix, AZ; 602-955-8400). . . . Paradise Valley Mall, the hub of the master planned community of Paradise Valley Village, offers 150 or so straight-ahead, mid-range stores, with Dillards, JC Penney, Macys, Sears, and Costco leading the pack. Indoor carousel and play area, too. Mall Central, and not a bad thing. (4568 E. Cactus Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85032; 602-996-8840)

Desert Ridge Marketplace 75 stores (from Aaron Brothers to Wet Seal, Claires to American Eagle), 31 restaurants, bowling, billiards, pottery painting, reality game room, EuroBungee Jump (do not ask) -- all spread over 1.2 million square feet of retail space in an outdoor setting. Garden of Eden for teens tho after 6 pm anyone under 16 needs a 'rent with them), complete with an 18-screen movie theater showing every possible current flick. (21001 N. Tatum Blvd., Phoenix, AZ 85050; 480-513-7586). . . . The longtime fave that's Metrocenter Mall may have seen better days but remains convenient, with 160 stores, a 12-screen movie theater, and a huge food court. (9617 N. Metro Pkwy W., Phoenix, AZ 85051; 602-997-8991)

SCOTTSDALE: Downtown Scottsdale comprises a number of lively districts: Old Town Scottsdale calls up the cowboy era big time with its old-fashioned, high-end stores selling western wear, Native American jewelry, silver jewelry, gifts, collectibles, and art and exudes its own charm with bicycle taxis and trolleys. (E. Main St., Scottsdale, AZ 85251). . . . The nearby downtown 5th Avenue shops also sell authentic Southwest-inspired gifts, Navajo rugs, clothing, boots (gotta have boots), art, jewelry, crafts, and artifacts. (5th Ave., between Goldwater Blvd. & Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85251)

But to get really down in the most retail way, try the nearly 2 million square feet (and ever-expanding) downtown shopping extravaganza that is Scottsdale Fashion Square, with enough anchors to sink an ocean liner -- Nordstrom, Macy's Neimans, Dillard's, and the spanking new Barneys - and enough high-end designer shacks to give the snobbiest Parisian boulevard a sniff and a run for its money. Consider Burberry, Coach, Hugo Boss, Kate Spade, Betsey Johnson, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Tourneau, Ferragamo, Michael Kors, Jimmy Choo, Cartier, Carolina Herrera, Bvlgari, and Bottega Veneta, all hanging out together along with scads of others, including a Tiffany that earns one of the company's highest sales figures per square foot in the country. This largest mall in Arizona (and the entire SW) also includes Kenneth Cole, Cache; Gap, Gucci, Guess; J Crew, J Jill; Lush, Juicy, Lucky (a potent trinity); and one of only two existing Microsoft stores in the country (you go, Microsoft; show us what you got). In all, 200-plus stores, 7-screen cinema, kids' playing area - heck why not just move in? (7014-590 E. Camelback Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85251; 480-949-0202)

The Waterfront, a retail, office, restaurant, and high-rise residential enterprise in the heart of the emerging downtown canal bank district (and still a work in progress), is set to become a charming, happening link (and new home of the Fiesta Bowl Museum) between 5th Avenue and Fashion Square. Retailers include Borders, Urban Oufitters, Sur La Table. Landscaping and a pedestrian-only footbridge invite further exploration. (7135 E. Camelback Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85251; 480-247-8071)

And there's more & The luxe, two-tiered El Pedregal Festival Marketplace, nestled at the foot of a 250-foot boulder formation, resembles an ancient Moroccan oasis and offers some unique upscale boutiques, interior-design shops, art galleries, salons, with Southwestern and Native American emphasis (duh) plus contemporary and ethnic stores. Midst a resort, conference center, with amphitheater for entertainment. No chains need apply. Kids? What kids? (34505 N. Scottsdale Rd, SE corner of Scottsdale Rd. & Carefree Hwy., Scottsdale, AZ 85262; 480-488-1072). . . . The Borgata resembles a lovely Tuscan village: fountains, cobblestone walkways, flowers, and courtyard all say 14th-century Italy, with 40 unique shops, eateries, and boutiques like Chico's, Bryn Walker, Lululemon chiming in. No movies, no food court, no games, no play areas means yet another reason not to bring the kids. (6166 N. Scottsdale Rd. & McDonald, Paradise Valley, AZ 85253; 602-953-6538)

KIERLAND/NORTH SCOTTSDALE: Kierland Commons boasts 75 stores, mostly the usual suspects (Anthropologie, Js Crew & Jill, Banana, Bebe, Juicy, Lucky, 7, Restoration, Crate & Barrel) with some less-than-usual players (Eileen Fisher, Gauthier L'atlier, Harari, Peek & Aren't You Curious?), in an outdoor setting with great atmosphere, dining, and twinkle lights. (15044 N. Scottsdale Rd., at Greenway Pkwy., Scottsdale, AZ 85254; 480-348-1577)& Brand-new Scottsdale Quarter, http://www.scottsdalequarter.com/ right across the way, is a mixed-use project with mid-rise contemporary buildings inspired by old-world architecture against the lush desert landscape, where you can shop at Apple, West Elm, H&M, Williams-Sonoma Home, and more. (15169 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85254; 480-483-4012)

Anthem Outlets, a bit north of Phoenix on the I-17, offers great deals, a ton (OK, around 50, give or take) of name-brand outlet stores and shops with deep discounts, an excellent food court, and a playground for kids. While the little ones are running through the fountain area getting nice and wet, serious shoppers can head for J. Crew, Ann Taylor, Banana, Levi's, The Children's Place, Osh Kosh B'Gosh, Gymboree, and HeartStrings, Gap, Dockers. The Kitchen Collection, Le Creuset, and Le Gourmet Chef also beckon with the latest kitchen gadgets and standbys. (4250 W. Anthem Way, Anthem, AZ 85086; 623-465-9500)

My Sister's Closet This consignment chain is part of a family of 11 stores where the selection changes daily, prices are reasonable, and the vibe is relaxed. My Sister's Closet sells designer clothes (organized by color, which we always like); meanwhile, My Sister's Attic focuses on furniture and tchotchkes; Small Change dispenses kids stuff; and Well Suited is for guys. Gucci, Pucci, Armani, Prada, and even designers with names not ending in vowels like Dior, Chanel, Hermes, Burch can be found here, plus tons of others, and for 60%-90% below retail. Think: All those clothes snapped up at Scottsdale Fashion Square's designer boutiques have to end up somewhere. (All four in Scottsdale's Lincoln Village, 6208 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85253; 480-443-4575; all but Small Change at Town & Country in Phoenix, 2033 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85016; 602-954-6080)

Travel Thru Time offers a large selection of old vintage, funky, and new designer clothing in great condition. Like many other vintage shops, they buy, sell, and trade the stuff. (1343 W. Thomas Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85013; 602-274-0666). . . . Same story at Back to the Rack, which sells designer ladies fashions, jewelry, and accessories consigned from some of the finest homes in Scottsdale. (7121 E. 5th Ave., Scottsdale, AZ 85251; 480-941-1672; also 975 E. Elliot Rd., Tempe, AZ; 480-838-4607)

Polka Dot Skull Trendy-type rhinestone-enhanced caps, wallets, handbags, hoodies; custom shirts, signs; they'll rhinestone any logo. More hipster-ish than it sounds, if you like that kinda thing. (1805 E. Elliot Rd., Tempe, AZ 85284; 480-838-1380) . . .

Divas Boutique Edgy designer fashion - 7 jeans, Juicy jewelry and accessories, Steve Madden shoes -- at decent prices, with unique pieces (like the Nubra) you might not find in a mall. (516 S. Mill Ave., Tempe, AZ 85281; 480-968-1783) . . . . Lucy's Deals shoes and clothes are at deals that are steals, for reals (like shoes for $3-$10 a pair). (2835 N. 16th St., Phoenix, AZ 85006; 602-279-9530)

SHOES: E&J's Designer and name-brand shoes for men and women in 10,000 square feet of warehouse space; handbags and accessories too. What it lacks in ambiance it's got in volume and savings. Fashions (and there are many of them) are grouped together; after a few moments you'll adjust your eyes, take stock, and start hunting. (1919 E. Camelback Rd., Ste. 2, Phoenix, AZ 85016; 602-234-0081) . . . . Redwing Shoe Store athletic, casual, top-of-the-line boots and footwear with great brands including Red Wing, Worx, and New Balance. (3937 E. Thomas Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85018; 602-275-2329). . . . Aldo Store Quality shoes, great customer service, reasonable prices, large selection of styles and sizes for men and women. (4568 E. Cactus Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85032; 602-765-0106) Allen Edmonds Company Shoe Store Timeless styles for men, and at a price, but when you're talking classics you're talking an investment in miles of strides. (Biltmore Fashion Park, 2502 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85016; 602-267-1410; Pima Crossing 8666 E. Shea Blvd. Scottsdale, AZ 85251; 480-607-0170; The Promenade 16251 N. Scottsdale Rd. at Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd., Scottsdale, AZ 85251; 480-609-6905)

Frances Unique, charming, adorable, tasteful stuff you want to scoop up and take home - or at the very least give someone you need a gift for: John Derain plates, whimsical and inventive kitchen graters, bangle charm bracelets, sock monkeys, Hello Kitty luggage tags, baby bath paraphernalia, stationery - you get the pic. (10 W. Camelback Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85013; 602-279-5467). . . . Haus Modern Living [CLOSED] Sleek, modern, witty, cool, elegant stuff in a bungalow-like setting. Lots of mid-century furniture and house accessories, design books, Jonathan Adler vases and boxes. A serious local go-to place for gifts if you have some serious change. (4700 N. Central Ave., Ste. 102, Phoenix, AZ 85016; 602-277-0111)

Made Art Boutique Locally owned retail and community space in yet another snug bungalow offers a constantly changing inventory of one-of-a-kind items made by more than 100 local artists, plus gifts, books, pottery, gourmet chocolate, handmade purses and scarves, truly interesting jewelry, OMG-cute baby clothes, idiosyncratic selection of magazines, not to mention the Beeswax lip balms (in variations like rosemary lime, vanilla ginger - yum!) and a solar-powered sun-jar lamp (no joke). This place rocks hard. (922 N. 5th St., Phoenix, AZ 85004; 602-256-6233). . . . Two Plates Full Quirky, colorful, one-of-a-kind functional art, gifts and accessories - cowboy/cowgirl dinnerware, handcrafted dolls, wrought-iron furniture, painted platters, Mexican glassware, recycled-rubber purses. (The Borgata, 6166 N. Scottsdale Rd., Ste. 402, Scottsdale, AZ 85253; 480-443-3241)

Lotions & Potions What you'd expect - salves, lotions, essential oils, soaps, candles in 60 scents, plus a house line of body care to which you can add your own fragrance, which always intrigues us. Great cards, Ts, jewelry. Locally owned and operated, in business since '69. Right on! (420 S. Mill Ave. #105, Tempe, AZ 85281; 480-968-4652). . . . Qcumberz A warren of rooms in an unassuming building that crams in a multitude of antiques, collectibles, salvage, wrought iron, and so forth, in styles ranging from vintage, retro, country, moderne and mid-century to primitive and western. Books, clocks, stuffed birds, crockery, jewelry boxes, you name it. Great value, some junk, many treasures, friendly staff. (4429 N. 7th Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85013; 602-277-5133)

Changing Hands Bookstore Massively popular local independent bookstore carries a wide array of new and used books, hosts author signings and lectures, sells chimes, incense, calendars, journals, candles, statuary, aromatherapy, plush animals and puppets, cool doo-dads and gag gifts, and inspires fierce loyalty. The kind of place you want to support and make sure never, ever closes. (6428 S. McClintock Dr., Tempe, AZ 85283; 480-730-0205)

Baiz Market Middle Eastern foods, at great prices, plus other notions from hookahs to religious art. Butcher (hankering for goat or lamb meat? Here's the place), produce, lots of dried fruits, nuts, olives, their own feta cheese, pistachio baklava, and a cafe where you can get massively delicious shawarma, tabouli, hummus, falafal, gyros, spinach pie, baba ghanoush, and other authentic Middle Eastern treats. (523 N. 20th St., Phoenix, AZ 85006; 602-252-8996). . . .British Gourmet. No, it's not an oxymoron, but a friendly sanctuary, tucked in the back of a strip mall, for ex-pat Brits and Anglophiles, where you can get steak and kidney pie, pasties, sausages, Barrs, and specialty treats around Christmas (crackers) and Easter (Cadbury chocolate eggs). A bit of all right, that. (7901 E. Thomas Rd., Ste. 105, Scottsdale, AZ 85251; 480-994-3837). . . . House of Rice Asian-larder basics plus items for parties, cooking, decorating, like wind chimes, paper lanterns, buddhas, books, chopsticks, kites, calligraphy supplies. Impressive selection of knives, Japanese food, Thai, Chinese, Burmese or Japanese as well as Indonesian/Malay and Dutch selections, fresh lemongrass, galangal, smoked mackerel, grilled eel, shrimp paste, baby bok choy. Huge sake selection. We're in. (3221 N. Hayden Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85251; 480-947-6698)

Petit Fromage The place for cheese (as well as prime charcuterie), specializing in artisanal American cheeses. House-made mozzarella, magical cheese curds, goat butters, with way-knowledgable Lara at the helm, who wraps her products in cheese paper. People stagger out of here as if they just learned the secret of the universe. The real thing. (5345 N. 7th Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85013; 602-363-1433). . . . The Cheese Shop An extension of SLo Foods Organic Cafe, located next door; great variety of uniquely delicious flat breads, made freshly on site daily along with a variety of cheeses (The Borgata, 6166 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85253; 480-483-3735)

Scratch Pastries Oh so very French madeleines, éclairs (esp the caramel), tartes, crepes, mogador (chocolate mouse with raspberry liqueur and jam), in a chic little French café that also serves enticing French food, prepared by the very French but somehow still delightful and engaging owner, whose photographs of his beautiful French model wife adorn the pink walls. Don't be put off by the strip mall. People leave here tres satisfied. (7620 E. Indian School Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85251; 480-947-0057). . . . Tammi Coe Cakes & MJ Bread Cupcakes, tarts, bread, cakes. Mini and small sizes make it impossible to just say no. Some swear by the lemon meringue, others the ooey gooey cupcakes, the mini scones and mini-muffins, breakfast croissants (ham egg, cheese), $2 sandwich sliders, box lunches, unusual breads, and most definitely the macaroon cookies. Parking tight. (610 E. Roosevelt St., Ste 145, Phoenix, AZ 85004; 602-253-0829). . . . Galileo Bread Emporio Nutella-filled croissants, pistachio muffins, foccacia (esp. the apple); great sandwiches and excellent espresso (what else would you expect). Your standard great Euro neighborhood bakery. (9619 N. Hayden Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85258; 480-998-7280)

Arlecchino Gelateria (now known as the Grateful Spoon) Some claim there is some sort of substance in the authentic gelato made here, it's that addictive, but we have to assume the pistachio, Nutella, Vesuvio, (explosion of chocolate, hazelnuts and Grand Marnier), Cortina, crema crunch, peanut butter, dulce de leche, or Valentino (pomegranate, rose petals, lavender, dry berries) are so good just because the Italian owner makes every batch from scratch from a secret recipe. The real deal. Parking, tho, can be a challenge. (4410 N. 40th St., # 5, Phoenix, AZ 85018; 602-955-2448). . . . Sphinx Date Ranch Home of famous and fabulous date shakes and the place for medjool dates, bulk, nuts, dried fruits. Did we mention the date shakes? (3039 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale, AZ 85251; 480-941-2261)

Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory Gourmet caramel apples, chocolate-dipped strawberries and the Bear -- chewy caramel, roasted nuts and heavy chocolate - plus heaps of truffles and other desirables, like chocolate-covered gummy bears (uh-huh). Candy-making demos, complete with copper kettles and gas-fired stoves, have you believe they really do make this stuff themselves. (Outlets at Anthem, 4250 Anthem Way, Ste. 485, Phoenix, AZ 85027; 623-465-9716; also 21001 N. Tatum Blvd., Ste. 1630, Phoenix, AZ 85050; 480-342-9993)

DRINK IT DOWN: Pop the Soda Shop This tiny cool retro place just makes you happy. Hundreds (no exaggeration) of flavors -- Buderim ginger beer, orange cream, black lemonade, vanilla, root beer, Captain Eli's Parrot Punch, blueberry; stuff you forgot -- or never knew -- existed. This includes Dublin Dr. Pepper, made by a Texas bottling plant that would not switch from cane sugar to HFCS like the rest of the plants and so still turns out the classic stuff. Diet varieties (like Jones Sugar-Free Black Cherry) too. (1649 N. 74th St., Scottsdale, AZ 85257; 480-994-4505). . . . Arcadia Fine Wine Any place whose motto is "Save water; drink wine" has a place in our hearts. Plus, the service is amazing and owner sweet, passionate, knowledgable. Tastings on Thursdays. A votre sante! (4747 N. Scottsdale Rd., Unit C-1007, Scottsdale, AZ 85251; 480-970-0646)